A skin rejuvenation method that began over 50 years ago has evolved into a technique called skin needling or collagen induction therapy (CIT). Skin needling involves rolling a small hand held derma-roller that is covered in tiny .2 to 2 mm length needles over areas of skin to be treated. The therapy is based on the concept that small controlled “damage” to the skin will be followed by healing and renewal of the skin structure.
How it works:
The needles of the derma-roller penetrate the outer layer of the skin stimulating the body to produce new collagen and elastin. The needling loosens old skin cells to be sloughed away so the skin is repaired at a faster rate. This stimulation also thickens the skin so it appears more youthful. Skin needling has been shown to work well in the treatment of deep acne scars such as “icepick” scars or other pock mark scars as the new collagen fills in the depressions and irregularities. Wrinkling and stretch marks can also be diminished as top layers of skin renew.
A small Italian study reported in Clinical Experimental Dermatology Journal Acne monitored 32 patients for 18 months after being treated for two sessions with a skin needling tool. Digital photos were taken of the patients to evaluate before and after results. The study showed that after only two sessions, “scars in all patients was greatly reduced and there was an overall aesthetic improvement.”
Like many methods of skin rejuvenation, skin needling is not without risks. The good news is that skin needling is a less invasive method of skin renewal that may be able to be done at home. The bad news is that while the procedure seems so straightforward, performing skin needling on yourself may not be as safe or as effective as having it done by a professionally trained clinician. Here in the U.S., there are very few places that provide this technique so it may be difficult to find an experienced professional.
In England, Australia and South Africa, trained clinicians use rollers with longer needles that stimulate the skin to bleed initiating the healing cascade. Topical numbing creams are used to reduce any discomfort. For home use, there are .2 mm units for sale that do not pierce as deeply and do not cause bleeding but are safer for self needling. Home units with shorter needles can be used for more superficial skin problems but for deeper acne or chickenpox scars professional treatment with longer needles is needed.
As to be expected, once medical grade derma-rollers went on the market, a flood of “knock off” derma-rollers appeared for sale on the web. Three medical grade derma-rollers I found were: Dermaroller ®, Roll-CIT™ and MTS Roller™. Dermaroller ® sells a medical version and a home model where the needles are less than .2 mm. Roll-CIT™ sells home and medical versions of their derma-roller as well. MTS Roller™ sells different depth needles on their rollers for home and professional use.
Risks and Precautions:
“Knock-off” home derma-rollers claim to have “FDA approval” which is not exactly accurate. These type of devices fall into a category of Class I medical devices that can be registered with the FDA. This is not the same as being approved or endorsed. “Knock off” derma-rollers also claim to be sterile but there is no way to really be certain. Some rollers with longer needles than .2mm are being sold for home use which increases the risk of infection or skin damage if improperly used. Overall, purchasing “knock off” derma-rollers falls under a “buyer beware” caveat with regard to quality of the device and there is likely no recourse if one was to develop an infection or other problem.
Before running out and purchasing one of these skin needling rollers or even going to a clinic for a treatment, there are general risks to be considered since the skin is pierced and susceptible to infection and scaring. The roller should not be pushed into the skin with undue pressure potentially creating damage. If you have an active skin infection, have cancer and are having radiation or chemotherapy treatments, take medications such as blood thinners or are on steroids; you should not have skin needling done.
If you plan to try it at home, only use the .2 mm rollers and stick with the medical grade ones even though they are more money. Follow the instructions to thoroughly cleanse the skin before using to prevent infection. Before trying any derma-roller on your face, pick a test area elsewhere on your body and give yourself several treatments to see how your skin responds. Hopefully, with more time, this new skin therapy will prove effective, become more mainstream and require less caution.
Sources:
www.smartskincare.com/treatments/noninvasive/skin-needling.html
www.dermarollers.com/qa.html
www.dermaroller-planet.com/dermarollers-approved-by-the-fda
www.medwire-news.md/66/85252/Dermatology_News/Skin_needling_shows_promise_for_improving_acne_scars.html
Michele is an R.N. freelance writer with a special interest in woman’s healthcare and quality of care issues. Other articles by Michele can be read at http://www.helium.com/users/487540/show_articles