Q & A: At Home Chemical Peels

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In widespread use for years, chemical peels are becoming increasingly popular as baby boomers age and aesthetic companies respond with more varieties of chemical peels to suit many needs. Today, there are even many "at home" chemical peels available. You're not alone if you're intrigued at the thought of rejuvenating your own skin right at home, but have questions about the products. Are they effective? Are they safe?

Here are some of the most frequently asked questions and answers about at home chemical peels.

Q. Are they effective?

A. At home chemical peels actually do yield results. You can think of them as a way to freshen the look of your skin--sort of a "super exfoliating" experience. They work by ridding your skin of its top layer of dead, dull cells. This allows the more youthful, moist layer underneath to emerge. This process, frequently referred to as "cell turnover," slows as you age. An at home chemical peel can be a tool for speeding up the process, thereby helping to even out minor variations in skin tone and brighten your complexion. It can also help reduce oiliness and cleanse blackheads.

Q. Are they as effective as physician-administered chemical peels?

A. The results you can expect at home are somewhat limited. For consumer safety, chemical peels available over the counter are usually the lightest of the three main types on the market--those made with alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid or beta hydroxy acids such as salycilic acid. Manufacturers usually market these peels using terms like "refreshing" and "renewing." Seldom will you find an at home peel that claims to address deep wrinkles, widespread discoloration or other more profound skin issues. And as a product you use without a physician handy, they should not have that kind of potency.

There are two other types of chemical peel that penetrate more deeply and should be reserved for professional use. Medium peels, commonly referred to as TCA (trichloroacetic acid) peels, penetrate the epidermis (outer layer of skin) down into the dermis. Therefore they are more effective at smoothing fine wrinkles and evening out skin tone, and they can also lead to more complications. Deep chemical peels, referred to medically as phenol peels, penetrate even further into the dermis. For these, patients need to be placed under local anesthesia and sedation at very least, more commonly under general anesthesia. Results from phenol peels can be very dramatic--they can even smooth deep wrinkles and address years of damage from sun and smoking.

3. How do they work?

Chemical peels cause your skin to burn. Whether you're using an at home chemical peel or visiting a dermatologist for a deep phenol peel, your skin will essentially be burned by the chemical agent. After the recommended time, the burning process is stopped and a healing cream is applied. Even if you're using a light peel at home, you'll want to be sure to follow all instructions carefully for each step. Failing to do so could result in infection, inflammation, discoloration and other adverse outcomes.

4. Are they safe?

Dermatologists, cosmetic surgeons, plastic surgeons and other physicians who get involved in skin rejuvenation advise great caution when trying an at home product. They suggest you look for a reputable manufacturer whose name you recognize and avoid unknown brands. You should know what the chemical agent is, and confirm that the product you select is a light peel. You must follow all directions to the letter. And it's certainly best to do quite a bit of research before experimenting on your face.

Some doctors recommend having a professionally-administered peel before trying an at home product, just so you have some idea how your skin reacts to chemical agents and what to expect during the recovery process. (Some physicians feel strongly that chemical peels should not be used at home at all.)

5. Can anyone use an at home chemical peel?

Special conditions call for special help. Skin with medium to dark pigmentation requires care from an expert to avoid discoloration, in fact, many chemical peels are not recommended for people with medium to dark skin. Pre-cancerous growths on the face are often treated with chemical peels; this therapy also requires expert management to ensure success. If you have deep acne scars or active acne, a consultation with a dermatologist would be well worth the investment.

Speaking very generally, you may be satisfied with an at home chemical peel if you have no special problems and you have the right expectations. Physicians suggest that you may be happiest with the results if:

- You just need modest improvement, like a thorough exfoliation
- You’re okay with doing treatment often, given the modest results
- You want to extend the results of a professional peel

As dermatologist Audrey Kunin puts it on www.dermadoctor.com, "Chemical peels are here to stay." And, along with many other treatments that used to require physician attention and oversight, chemical peels are now available over the counter in retail stores and online. But the fact that these treatments are easily accessible doesn't mean they are automatically safe for everyone, easy to use and without risk. Quite the contrary, in fact. If you plan to try an at home chemical peel, do proceed with caution.

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We value and respect our HERWriters' experiences, but everyone is different. Many of our writers are speaking from personal experience, and what's worked for them may not work for you. Their articles are not a substitute for medical advice, although we hope you can gain knowledge from their insight.