Let’s get the true confessions out of the way right now: I turned my hair orange when I was in my twenties. It wasn’t Bozo the Clown orange or even Carrot Top orange; it was sort of a cross between doorknob brass and orangutan orange. Not shocking but not too far from it, and definitely not the effect I was going for when I decided to color my own hair.
Needless to say, at that time I did not know much about the structure of human hair and the impact of hair dye. Now that I understand these concepts better, let me pass the information along to help you avoid the same chemical disaster I experienced.
The outer layer of each hair shaft is called the cuticle. It’s made of transparent cells or scales that overlap each other in a protective coating. A Procter & Gamble Web site, www.pgbeautygroomingscience.com, notes that an undamaged hair cuticle contributes to shiny, healthy looking hair by reflecting maximum light. That’s why you want to be gentle with your hair.
The cortex, the center of the hair shaft, contains strands of protein called keratins. It also contains the all-important melanin particles that give hair its color. According to Procter & Gamble, there are two kinds of melanins: eumelanin and phaeomelanin. Most people have a mixture. Eumelanin gives hair darker color; phaeomelanin is a lighter pigment predominating in blonde and red hair.
These days, most hair color companies categorize their products into three levels of coloring, explains www.howstuffworks.com:
LEVEL 1 is semi-permanent color. These products don’t contain ammonia or peroxide, so they can add color but not lighten your existing color much. Semi-permanent color does enter the hair cuticle and deposit molecules in the cortex. But the molecules are small, so they 1) don’t impact existing pigment and 2) wash out after several shampoos. These products can be good choices for covering gray hair as they add color to hair that has lost most of its melanin.
LEVEL 2 products are called demi-permanent. In the coloring process, the product’s molecules, referred to by howstuffworks as “pre-color molecules,” enter the hair’s cortex and become medium sized color molecules. Demi-permanent products also contain some peroxide, allowing for some color enhancement. Demi-permanent color takes longer to wash out than semi-permanent color, and can even become permanent on hair that has already been processed with chemicals—meaning colored, straightened or permed.
LEVEL 3 products are permanent colors that use both peroxide and ammonia. Tiny molecules penetrate into the cortex, then expand so they can’t be washed out. Permanent color lightens your natural base color and adds the color you choose, resulting in a combination that’s truly your own. If you go from darker hair to blonde hair, bleach will strip your existing color away before the peroxide-ammonia combination does its work.
As you can imagine, I was pretty distressed all those years ago when I saw my new hair color made me a candidate for the Absolutely Apes exhibit at the San Diego Zoo. Not only that, I was indignant as I realized that it wasn’t washing out, certain that I hadn’t chosen a permanent color.
Now I know that I applied demi-permanent color to my already-permed hair—a bad idea. Especially for a do-it-yourselfer with little experience. Which brings me to my last bit of input for you—when to seek the services of a professional. Many home beauticians are quite successful coloring their own hair, particularly those who add color to gray strands. But consider consulting an experienced hair stylist when:
- You want to go more than a few shades darker or lighter
(especially lighter)
- Your hair is very dry or damaged by sun, overprocessing, etc
- You want highlights on hair that’s already been colored
- You’ve experienced a chemical disaster and need help
If you’ve pulled a move like I did, at least visit an expert for a consultation. It’s possible to get back on track even for a do-it-yourselfer, but do get professional advice.
As for me? I do my own nails, mow the lawn and clean my own house to balance the budget. I’ve learned I just can’t be trusted with chemicals!